East End Kitchen

Almost nothing pleases me more than a cozy neighborhood restaurant in the middle of a residential block. Two-week-old East End Kitchen, the successor to the defunct Le Boeuf A La Mode, is right around the corner from me, and I had the good fortune to celebrate my aunt's seventieth birthday there tonight. (I don't know if it was the restaurant's good fortune to serve us, as my aunt has a laundry list of don't-eat-this-and-don't-eat-thats, and my 19-month-old prefers running to sitting, but we certainly had a swell time.)

East End Kitchen is a seasonal, sustainable enterprise that would be right at home on the North Shore. The appetizers include watermelon and goat cheese salad, crab cakes with fennel, and chilled tomato soup, and the main courses focus on simple but satisfying meat dishes (chicken with potatoes and shallots, duck and cherries, pork with peaches) with a sprinkling of seafood entrees.

I have to hand it to the servers, as our party presented some unique challenges. (I almost feel as though I should post a public apology.) First of all, we arrived 10 minutes before the restaurant was due to open, and the staff was having a meeting. No matter, we were graciously seated, as it was raining heavily. A delightful basket of mini-baguettes with unsalted butter was brought to the table. My son threw his bread on the floor. (I picked it up.) More baguettes soon arrived.

My aunt wanted lettuce with mayonnaise for an appetizer. She was presented with a nice plate of mixed greens. "This isn't lettuce," she complained. "It is a variety of lettuce leaves," patiently explained the waitress. "What were you looking for?" It was obvious that my aunt was expecting a plate of pale iceberg leaves. The waitress apologized, explaining that the restaurant did not have any romaine or iceberg and mostly focused on seasonal, local produce.

My aunt also has an aversion to all meats served with sweet accompaniments, which nixed the pork and the duck. As I have written before, she is also severely allergic to pepper. Fortunately, a perfectly rare New York strip steak in a wine sauce with velvety mashed potatoes, green beans and mushrooms gave her nothing to complain about. A burger topped with Gruyere and heirloom tomatoes pleased my mother, and a side of French fries placated my son. The hand-cut fries were outrageously good and crispy, and they passed my son's seal of approval. For myself, I had sort of an interesting non-Italian take on pasta: Swiss chard tortellini with chervil topped with melted cheddar in an unadorned cream sauce.

Serendipitea City Harvest black tea scented with vanilla and orchids was a fragrant accompaniment to a bowl of chocolate mousse, pecans and raspberry coulis. I would like to try the cherry clafouti or the frozen blueberry souffle, but that will have to wait for another visit.

I commend East End Kitchen for gentle, good-natured service, a concise menu of inviting choices, and an uplifting atmosphere.

East End Kitchen: 539 East 81st St., (212) 879-0450.

David Burke Kitchen

The latest gem in David Burke's empire is four-month-old David Burke Kitchen. Located at the edge of Chinatown, it features its proprietor's emphasis on farm-to-table food. The restaurant's atmosphere is rather incongruous; a loud techno soundtrack provides a jarring backdrop to a rustic room decorated with photos of farmhands. As the volume escalates, it becomes difficult to concentrate on how delicious the food is, but this seems to be an increasingly common complaint.

The menu features comfort food with a twist. It's impossible not to order at least five appetizers, which also include the lighter "snacks" and "jars." For jars, our table ordered a basil-accented tomato, ricotta and eggplant jar which reminded me of a deconstructed eggplant parmigiana and the ocean cocktail, which was a spicy ceviche of shrimp, scallops and lobster served with refreshing endive leaves. We then progressed to snacks of salmon pastrami rolled around pretzel sticks and skewers of decadent date and peanut butter croquettes wrapped with slices of maple bacon.

The next dish was one of my favorites of the night. A bowl of mellow tomato gazpacho featured a dainty round napoleon based on a thin disk of watermelon, which was layered with sweet lobster meat and a layer of chive and salt-sprinkled lemon creme fraiche. For main courses, the tuna was a study in crimson: crispy sushi-grade slices were accompanied by a tart plum sauce and roasted beets. If I had it to do over again, I would not have ordered the short ribs and cavatelli with truffle cream and dried wild mushroom chips. Although this dish was delicious, it was probably the heaviest on the menu, and was reminiscent of beef stroganoff. Next time, I will take advantage of all the line-caught fish and local produce on the menu.

Desserts were predictably cute and comforting. Sugar-dusted fried donuts were served with fun tubes of caramel, chocolate and raspberry, as well as a selection of ice cream sandwiches. The peach cobbler could have been served warmer and was rather plain Jane, but this was forgotten when complimentary little packages of crunchy chocolates were brought by.

If you've ever seen the show "Portlandia," you may have been amused by an episode where two diners obsess over the origin of the chicken at a restaurant. They keep asking, "But is it local?" The waiter presents them with a certificate showing the chicken's given name, biography, and the farm where he lived. I will be moving to Portland at the end of the summer, so I guess it's time for me to start taking advantage of the farm-to-table movement!

David Burke Kitchen: James Hotel, 23 Grand St., (212) 201-9119.

The Landing at Ocean Beach

Ocean Beach's newest restaurant offers a delightful waterside dining experience at reasonable prices (well, reasonable for Ocean Beach). A friend and I chose it for a light lunch on a perfectly sunny beach afternoon. (We'd already overindulged on seafood bisque and fried flounder wraps at Nicky's Clam Bar before taking the ferry, so the giant pancakes at Rachel's weren't an option. Plus, we wanted to enjoy a view of the bay.)

A classic Caesar with grilled salmon sounded good, but I ended up with a sweet-savory green salad with lots of crumbled Maytag blue cheese, chunks of Granny Smith apple, and crispy candied walnuts in a sweet poppy seed dressing. My friend opted for the mussels provencal; two thick slices of well-buttered, grilled garlic bread lay aside a healthy portion of mussels in a light garlic-wine sauce with diced tomatoes.

If my appetite had allowed, I would've tried the fried scallop sandwich or the fish and chips (only $12). Next time I visit Ocean Beach, I will try to resist the allure of Nicky's so that I can wait to eat at The Landing!

The Landing at Ocean Beach: 620 Bay Walk, Ocean Beach, Fire Island (631) 583-5800.

Brunch at Belcourt

My friend and I were seeking a reasonable brunch in the East Village, and were glad to find that almost all of the brunch dishes at Belcourt were under $10. Our favorite item was to be only $7: a plate of piping hot buttermilk biscuits, smothered in berry preserves and housemade ricotta, with an undercurrent of honey. My friend's cranberry granola was unsweetened yogurt was positively ascetic compared with this concoction.

The only other item on the menu that seemed as decadent was the vanilla bourbon French toast with ricotta and New York maple syrup, but I opted for the personal eggs. Mine came scrambled with a salad of mesclun greens coated with a lemony dressing, a small portion of paprika fried potatoes, and a regrettably dry piece of pork sausage (there was also maple-cured bacon and lamb ham). Although the eggs and potatoes were just fine, I think I would have been happier with a double portion of those wonderful buttermilk biscuits.

Belcourt: 84 East 4th St., (212) 979-2034.

Around the World In Seven Days, Part II: Another Week in Astoria

Here is a sequel to Part I, with seven more countries to visit! (Where to go next? Egypt? Ecuador?)

1. Brazil (also see Malagueta): Brasilianville Café & Grill. This $4.99/lb. buffet will delight both the carnivore and the vegetarian. Spoon some buttered rice onto your plate, and start loading up on black beans, corn pudding, grilled fish, fried mandioca, acaraje, beef and carrot stew, battered chicken skewers, beet salad, and garlicky collards (the menu changes daily). If you crave more meat, go talk to the friendly guy at the grill... he'll fill up your plate with sirloin churrasco. Don't forget the exotic fruit shakes - I like the cacao pulp with milk and sugar. (Brasilianville Café & Grill: 43-12 34th Ave., 718-472-0090.)

2. Czech Republic: Koliba. If you dine here, I suggest fasting all morning and afternoon. Monstrous portions of pork or chicken schnitzel will challenge (and satisfy) the heartiest eater. Make sure to order the homemade tartar sauce on the side, and get the home fries with onion. Take some apple strudel home with you - you won't have any more room until tomorrow. (Koliba Restaurant: 31-11 23rd Ave., 718-626-0430. My grandma would have loved this place.)

3. France (Brittany, to be more specific): Cafe Triskell. At this tiny cafe, toothsome buckwheat crepes are served with a variety of fillings - I like the crumbly goat cheese, which arrives with a refreshing green salad on top of the big square crepe. Sweet crepes include apricot jam with almonds, and banana with buckwheat honey. Please be advised that this cafe is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays - I found out the hard way. (Cafe Triskell: 33-04 36th Ave., 718-472-0612.)

4. India: Seva. This restaurant is a local favorite. I found the paratha rather dry, but there was plenty of cheese in the palak paneer, and the spiced butternut squash soup was a winner. There are many vegan options, including a soy mirch masala. (Seva: 30-07 34th St., 718-626-4440.)

5. Mexico: (also see Tacos Mexico) Las Margaritas. This year, none of the food at the Broadway street fair appealed to my companion and me, so we ended up here. We ordered a couple of health-conscious specials...skirt steak on a spinach salad, and spicy shrimp tacos on soft, warmed corn tortillas (no beans and rice). Heartier dishes include fajitas, enchiladas and tacos al carbon. (Las Margaritas: 38-01 Broadway, 718-777-1707.)

6. United States (Southwest/Tex-Mex): Mojave. The beautiful backyard garden is the scene for
the consumption of countless fruit-infused margaritas. Service can be lackadaisical for lunch, but there's a reasonable two-course prix-fixe - I've enjoyed the salmon sandwich with chipotle aioli. I keep meaning to try the Mexican chocolate fondue. (Mojave: 22-36 31st St., 718-545-4100.)

7. Venezuela: Arepas Cafe. The best arepas in NYC are found here (sorry, Caracas Arepas). Slightly crispy on the outside, moist and dense within, the cornmeal pockets are large enough to hold a lot of goodies without overflowing. Fillings range from the exotic (truffle butter tuna with pico de gallo) to the traditional (shredded beef). $3 beers are served at happy hour - for a non-alcoholic alternative, try the phenomenal cafe de leche. (Arepas Cafe: 33-07 36th Ave., 718-937-3835.)

Oh, Olana!

Last week's NYC Wine & Food Grand Tasting was packed with people. I was tripping over wineglasses and bumping into briefcases while I tried to grab all the goodies. There were Kobe beef hot dogs, cups of carrot ginger soup, truffled pizzas... in my excitement, I tried to take a butternut squash root beer float before it was ready, evoking a stern rebuke. "This stand is all about please and thank you!" "I'm sorry, please," I mumbled.

But then I saw the welcoming face of Al Di Meglio, chef/co-owner of newcomer Olana. He was dishing out pumpkin tortelli with crushed amaretti. The delicious pasta, and Mr. Di Meglio's charming manner, convinced me to check out the restaurant. I brought a friend there just a couple days later.

The service was just as welcoming as Mr. Di Meglio had been. "We've been waiting for you," smiled the host. We requested a table in the back, away from the noisy, sceney bar.

Olana is located in the former Mad 28 Italian restaurant. It was completely renovated; the pizza oven's stone wall was knocked down to make way for a pretty private room that seats 35. The bar features elderflower mojitos, little bites like crispy onion rings and lamb burgers, and plenty of people-watching! But if the bar is Dos Caminos, the restaurant is Blue Hill. All ingredients are sourced from farms, and the butter, ice cream and pasta are homemade. Right now, the menu includes all those wonderful autumn tastes: butternut squash, chestnuts, celery root, nutmeg and spiced pears.

Although my friend and I were tempted by the trio of pasta (mint tacconi in lamb sausage ragu, cauliflower ham risotto and squash tortelli with shaved Grana Padano), we decided to go with the $48 prix fixe. Our server brought by four different rolls and two different butters, and then we went at our pork shoulder terrine amuse-bouche.

My butternut squash soup was a delightful little spectacle. The server produced a flask of bright orange puree, and poured it into my small glass dish, which contained mushrooms, bits of mushroom flan and a flourish of smoked cinnamon cream. My friend chose the ricotta-stuffed chestnut crespelle in a sauce of sage and brown butter. The crepe was moderately sized but deliciously rich.

"Is this nutmeg?" asked my friend as he tasted the spaghetti squash that came with his roasted free-range chicken. The chicken had been completely deboned except for one decorative drumstick. I dug into the roasted local brook trout... crispy on top and meaty, it lay next to a little pile of herbed baby artichokes, little red onion curlicues, black kale leaves, baby carrots, and a surprise: shrimp dumplings the size of small scallops.

Mr. Di Meglio came over to inform us about a special event on Oct. 27 where he'll host the upstate farmers that provide Olana's ingredients. He also talked about his upcoming Thanksgiving menu. Mains will include slow-cooked turkey breast and leg confit, roasted prime rib, spice-glazed heritage ham with quince mustard, and herb-crusted salmon. Diners will be able to order the side dishes (pecan candied yams, black truffle mashed potatoes, orange-cranberry sauce) family style. (If you come with my family, you'd better make sure you get some of the potatoes before we finish them all.)

My friend and I then attacked our intensely butterscotchy sticky date pudding. The warm pudding arrived next to a scoop of bracing pomegranate sorbet - I imagine the sorbet is supposed to help you get through the rich pudding! The final touch was a plate of homemade mint marshmallows, a cute ceramic pot of dark chocolate fondue, and some butter cookies.

I never get enough of the local/seasonal food craze, and Olana's elegant yet comforting cuisine will have me coming back for more.

Olana: 72 Madison Ave., (212) 725-4900.

Hideaway Restaurant

It's hard to believe that a place as idyllic as Ocean Beach exists. Spotless, carless and litter-free, this Fire Island village is kept that way through strict regulations - its popular nickname is the "Land Of No." (In 1977, two people were famously arrested for eating cookies outside.) But after dining at Hideaway Restaurant, I propose a new moniker for Ocean Beach: the "Land of Yes, Yes, Yes!" Craig Attwood (formerly of NYC's Patroon and Islip's The Gatsby) is the Hideaway's executive chef, and he presides over an inspired menu with lots of seafood and a few Asian touches. (NOTE: As of 2009, Mr. Attwood is no longer at the Hideaway.)

Like Ocean Beach's other waterfront restaurants (Maguire's and Matthew's), the Hideaway features an outdoor dining deck. But diners can also enjoy the sunset inside, at a table decorated with fresh flowers and white votives in cornflower-blue holders. My companion and I sat by a window and watched people disembark from their boats to come and eat.

We sipped Shiraz and munched on warm focaccia as we waited for five-spiced baby back ribs and a beet and goat cheese napoleon. The six meaty ribs came with a refreshing salad of mint and lightly pickled watermelon slices. My napoleon was an imaginative creation - no puff pastry in sight, it was a little layered sculpture of beet circles, their juice painting warm goat cheese disks bright vermilion. The sweet beets mellowed the sharpness of the cheese.

I had considered ordering the yellowfin tuna sashimi appetizer, but figured this would be redundant with the coriander-crusted tuna. This dish was incredibly delicious; two seared pieces of tuna, their insides rare, lay atop a bed of buttered basmati rice interspersed with asparagus tips and slivers of shiitake. Green cilantro aioli encircled the dish. I finished every bite. My companion ordered the four giant diver scallops with watercress salad and oven-roasted tomatoes.

Fresh whipped cream was the final touch on each of our desserts, which were a zingy little Key Lime tart on an ultra-buttery crust, and a warm chocolate souffle cake accompanied by rum caramel banana pudding.

(I don't know how I had room for two Frisbee-sized banana pancakes at Rachel's Bakery the next morning. Maybe it was the effect of those ocean breezes.)

Hideaway Restaurant: Bay Walk, Ocean Beach, Fire Island, (631) 583-8900.

Lokal Mediterranean Bistro

The apartment directly above me is being renovated from top to bottom. Everything is being ripped out, drilled, and reinstalled. This means a daily onslaught of unbearable banging, shouting and thudding, which chases me out of my own apartment. I need a vacation! Unfortunately, much as I may long to visit the French Riviera (or any foreign destination) a trip out of the country is not an option for me right now.

Yesterday, the farthest I could travel was Williamsburg, Brooklyn. I was planning to take a stroll around McCarren Park when I caught sight of Lokal, a small Mediterranean restaurant on the park's perimeter. As I walked closer, the soft sounds of bossa nova wafted into my ears. Stained-glass French doors opened out onto the street, and I could see couples relaxing on striped blue banquettes. Sighing, I entered and sat down. The tables were decorated with shells and blue sand. I could almost imagine that I was on some kind of exotic vacation, although the cross breezes originated not from the sea but from the traffic on Nassau and Lorimer.

Lokal's menu offers plenty of classic spa selections, if you'd like to share in this fantasy of staying at some exotic resort. Caesar salads, grilled vegetable plates and penne with shrimp will entice the calorie-conscious diner (although "Lokal" is not a pun on '"lo-cal"). I ordered some unsweetened iced tea and a tuna burger. Although the beef burgers looked much plumper and more substantial, there was no filler in my choice - the burger was all chunks of seared tuna. The puffy brioche bun was nicely smeared with wasabi mayo, and a good portion of rosemary-sprinkled shoestrings was included. (For those who want something larger for lunch, there are meatball or beef casseroles.) At dinner, the menu expands to offer roasted free-range chicken and grilled NY steak.

I finished my last French fry to the strains of "How Insensitive." Although this song might be particularly apt for the people working on the apartment above me, at least I can temporarily escape their cacophony at Lokal.

Lokal Mediterranean Bistro: 905 Lorimer St., Brooklyn, (718) 384-6777.

Prince St. Cafe & Catering

A recent article on the Jane Jacobs and the Future of New York Website asks: "Is a New Yorker's right to an affordable dining-out experience a livability issue?" I certainly feel that it is, so I was delighted to discover Prince St. Cafe & Catering tonight. For $12, I dined like a king! I ordered the homemade fettucini, which is prepared in six different ways: with wild mushrooms and English peas, grilled veggies and goat cheese, duck confit and truffle butter, crabmeat and sun-dried tomatoes, prosciutto with tomatoes and mozzarella, and my choice, the luscious pine nut pesto. Olive oil coated the thick noodles and crunchy pine nuts, and the wonderful aroma of fresh basil permeated the room. A customer walked in and said that this delicious fragrance was the first thing he noticed. (The special also included hunks of fresh baguette and a big vinaigrette-dressed green salad.)

I still had a few bucks on me, so after gaping at the red velvet, lemon meringue and chocolate cupcakes ($2), I ended up taking a giant chocolate fudge brownie home with me. I'm still too full to eat it!

Prince St. Cafe & Catering, 26 Prince St., (212) 343-7310.

Brunch at Cookshop

This past Sunday, I thought it might be nice to brunch with a friend at Cookshop. It turned out that half of Manhattan had the same idea. There was a wait even though we had a reservation; fortunately it wasn't too long, as my buttermilk beignets craving was unbearable! Cookshop serves the four hot, puffy, sugar-dusted doughnuts with a stroke of genius: cardamom-spiked pineapple compote. Like lemon squeezed over fried zucchini, it's a perfect combination.

After polishing these sweeties off, we decided against the cornmeal pancakes with caramel bananas. My friend ordered a thick slice of rye toast which had the dual function of supporting some braised chard and poached eggs, and sopping up a pool of velvety cheese fondue. I downed the "Cookshop Scramble" with smoked salmon - a halved biscuit holding a portion of eggs scrambled with caramelized onions, dill and salmon.

When we were finished, I briefly considered ordering more beignets, but one must occasionally show some kind of restraint.

Cookshop: 156 Tenth Ave., (212) 924-4440.

Corner Shop Cafe

Lately, all I seem to want is Belgian hot chocolate, mac & cheese, and fruit cobbler. Fortunately, these comfort foods can all be found at Corner Shop Cafe. Whenever I walk down Broadway, I always want to go inside this pretty restaurant (it looks like Anthropologie, if Anthropologie had a cafe), and last night afforded me my first opportunity.

I began with some fried artichokes tossed with lemon and salt, which arrived in a basket (note to fried artichoke lovers: $7 will get you just one fried artichoke at Bar Stuzzichini, but it will get you a whole basket at Corner Shop Cafe!). The waiter had recommended that I order a half-portion of macaroni and cheese as it was so rich. He was right! But the portion was hardly small, it was rather like the size served at Penelope's. The flavor was out of this world. Pepper Jack, Gruyere and cheddar melted together around a pile of tender elbow noodles mixed with taut little peas and a few slices of shiitake. The dish was topped with breadcrumbs and crunchy bits of Parmesan. A bit of truffle oil provided that final "what is that wonderful taste?"

I finished the whole thing (incidentally, if you're not a mac 'n' cheese fan - there are lots of other goodies for you: pork milanese with grilled corn and tomato salad, soy-marinated skirt steak, rosemary roasted free-range chicken, cioppino, even Cuban sandwiches! Order a Gorgonzola-ed mashed potato on the side.) with room to spare for a tart strawberry-apricot cobbler with a side of whipped cream. The dessert menu also includes a mango creme brulee - maybe I'll try it this summer, but right now, I'll stick with the cobbler and perhaps the chocolate bread pudding.

Corner Shop Cafe: 643 Broadway, (212) 253-7467.

The House

I always wondered what this mid-19th-century carriage house was doing in the middle of East 17th Street. Was it an inn? A nautical museum? Today, I found out that it was an excellent place to have brunch.

An amiable host sat me at a white marble table and I looked over the menu. The brunch menu included a prosciutto, fig and gorgonzola panino, a lobster club with pancetta, a scrambled egg sandwich, and my choice, a cheery little frittata loaded with bright red and yellow cherry tomatoes, baby zucchini, mushrooms and red onions, served with pressed sourdough toast. I couldn't resist an order of the well-salted roasted fingerlings peppered with black truffles... these were among the best brunch potatoes I've eaten. (However, the advertised Mocha Joe's coffee was much weaker and more bitter than I remembered from my trip to Brattleboro.)

I had no room left for the Key lime pie, triple chocolate mousse cake or gelato, but I'll make sure to leave some when I head over for dinner. I'm thinking about going on a Friday, when the rotisserie special is organic Amish chicken with ginger lemongrass honey.

The House: 121 East 17th St., (212) 353-2121.

Brunch at Ditch Plains

I am still thinking about the smoked mozzarella ricotta fritters at Ditch Plains. There were six of them. I picked one up and bit into the crisp and browned exterior, but was in no way prepared for the gooey deliciousness inside. A layer of light eggy batter contained an onslaught of hot melted cheese... the spicy tomato sauce on the side was a nice touch but not really necessary!

I think I scared the no-nonsense waitress with my giddiness. (I'm sure she's not reading this, but on the off chance that she is, and remembers a slightly wacky table of four this past Sunday, we really meant no harm. And we weren't drunk. We were just giddy over the prospect of the fritters.)

We also ordered clam chowder (two kinds, Manhattan and New England), fried eggs with satisfyingly greasy hash browns and a side of thickly cut bacon, and gargantuan spinach-goat cheese omelettes that were enough for two. But after all of this, I was still thinking about those smoked mozzarella ricotta fritters.

Ditch Plains: 29 Bedford St. (212) 633-0202

Lounge 47

Lounge 47, a Long Island City neighborhood favorite, pleases everyone from the hard drinker to the health nut. $3 draughts draw the happy-hour crowd, while the menu offers such diverse options as burgers and vegan wheat-free strawberry shortcake. The decor is reminiscent of what you find in Williamsburg - mustard and olive-colored chairs and a backyard patio adorned with logoed parasols.

The bar food is sophisticated. There are samosas, onion pakoras, fish 'n' chips, cod puttanesca, Carolina pulled pork sandwiches, and a curry - chicken or vegetable - served with your choice of rice or fries. (How often do you get to order fries with your curry?) Today's special was Sicilian eggplant layered with ground beef and tomatoes, but I decided to order the "grown-up" macaroni and cheese. Although I usually prefer it browned, bubbly, and super-cheesy, I did enjoy Lounge 147's subtle, creamy version; tender elbows were sprinkled with breadcrumbs and rosemary, and the sauce was lightly cheddary with a hint of onion. According to the waitress, there was goat cheese in there too, but I couldn't detect it. I also ordered the fried calamari (I can never order just one thing), which were terrific: the ample portion was cornmeal-crusted and greaseless, and came with chipotle mayo and hot marinara sauce.

Then it was time for dessert, of course! While I sipped my French press coffee, I debated between the "cheesecake-tiramisu" (what is that?) and the fruit crumble. Finally I decided on that vegan, gluten-free strawberry shortcake. The waitress warned me that it might have a unique texture, and it was a slice of cake, not the usual strawberries and cream in a biscuit. Still, it was full of berries, and I don't know how they made the layer of icing, but it was convincing!

Lounge 47: 4710 Vernon Blvd., Long Island City, (718) 937-2044.

Park Avenue Summer

As of three days ago, the venerable Park Avenue Cafe is now Park Avenue (Insert Season Here), a restaurant which will change its name, decor and menu every season. My companion and I, who dined there last night with another couple, were tickled at the concept ("Will they have to call the phone company every three months to change their name?" I wondered), but the imaginative, pleasingly plated cuisine sold us on the idea.

Upon our arrival, three hostesses in pale sundresses invited us to look at the "ice bar": bottles of vodka with a choose-your-own selection of flavorings like ginger-sugarcane and spearmint. Then we sat down in white faux-snakeskin chairs; it was obvious from the decor that the owners aimed to bring Downtown chic to the staid Upper East Side. (Unfortunately, this ambience included the loud dance music that one finds at many hotspots! This was our only gripe.)

We toasted the new restaurant with glasses of light, sweet Conundrum and got to work on the refreshing amuse bouche: cubes of bright red watermelon (is there anything more summery?) topped with spicy yogurt and basil sprigs. This first taste heralded the beginning of an evening of intriguing sweet-savory combinations.

The specials all featured corn: Kumamoto oysters with corn milk, grits, even corn panna cotta. (Note: for the chic, figure-conscious diner, there were salad options in all courses: appetizers, mains, even desserts. I am not especially chic or figure-conscious, of course, and my menu choices reflected accordingly.)

My appetizer was an interesting take on gazpacho: tangy tomato gelatin was the base for small heaps of peekytoe crab on velvety green dollops of avocado. The other apps were equally refreshing and colorful: red-and-green gingered beet and cucumber salad; yellow and green beans accented with fresh mint and chopped nuts; and paper-thin slices of fluke sashimi dotted with crimson plum paste.

Our appetites whetted, we then proceeded to the mains and sides. Crispy hand-cut French fries, served in a little wooden box with tabasco mayo, the most extraordinary buttered baby carrots and marshmallows (!) and a dish of creamy corn grits and niblets accompanied our entrees: truffled John Dory with a breadcrumb-crusted egg which had somehow maintained its runny yolk; three roulades of rosy, bottom-seared sashimi-grade yellowfin tuna with purple radish sprouts and aioli; a layered salad of lobster and avocado; and two perfectly grilled chunks of filet mignon in "steak sauce butter" with a side salad of arugula, raspberries and shards of Parmesan.

We were excited to see that pastry chef Richard Leach had crafted a sophisticated new dessert menu. I chose the summer raspberries with goat cheese mousse. This was a tall sculpture of round cookies alternating between ripe red berries, sorbet and mousse enveloped in thin sweet wafers. The mousse was reminiscent of a light cheesecake. My companion devoured the sauteed blueberries with lemon semolina cake and lemongrass panna cotta, and our companions ate up every last spoonful of their chocolate-tea and basil gelato! Highly recommended.

Park Avenue Summer: East 63rd St. and Park Ave.,(212) 644-1900.

DB Wine Bar & Kitchen: A Surprisingly Excellent Meal in Forest Hills

I generally have pretty low expectations for Forest Hills eateries, as they tend to be of the tired chain or the good-50-years-ago variety. So, when I heard rumors about the high quality of this year-old restaurant, I just had to see (and eat) for myself!

My companion and I walked over to quiet Metropolitan Avenue and saw that the old Dee's space had been converted into a modern, inviting room that resembled the popular 12th Street Bar & Grill in Park Slope. We sat down to some crusty bread and perused the long wine list and Mediterranean-influenced menu.

Immediately, we realized we were in for something other than the typical Forest Hills experience! There was a charcuterie-and-cheese menu, there were entrees like organic chicken under a brick and sides like hand-cut fries. A gentleman behind us was happily nibbling on some Parmigiano Reggiano.

Our gracious, knowledgeable waitress chose a fruity Pinot Noir for us and soon, we started work on a small plate: a delicious cake of salmon tartare, crowned with a dollop of creme fraiche and served with small toasts. We'd almost gone for the grilled calamari, but the tartare was great for sharing.

Next arrived a big bowl of handmade pappardelle in a hearty roasted tomato sauce, topped with shreds of Parmigiano and arugula leaves. The star of the evening was the monkfish: five hunks of chimichurri-crusted, tender fish with garlicky broccoli rape and a couscous accented with pine nuts and red currants. (We couldn't resist checking out everyone else's entree; the burger and the salmon with bacon and lentils looked great too!)

For dessert, we enjoyed the intense red wine poached pear, which came with a small bowl of ultra-rich gorgonzola dolce and cranberry walnut toasts. Next time, we'll end with the buttermilk panna cotta or sweet crepes... or a cheese plate!

Thank you, Danny Brown, for adding such a delight to Forest Hills.

Update: It appears that this restaurant may have to change its name. But no matter what it's called, by all means, try it!

DB Wine Bar & Kitchen: 104-02 Metropolitan Ave., Forest Hills, Queens, (718) 261-2144.

The Tasting Room NYC

I wanted to give an oenophile friend the perfect birthday dinner. After mulling (no pun intended) over the excellent Veritas and I Trulli, I instead brought her to The Tasting Room NYC, which features a visible wine cellar. What a wonderful choice this turned out to be!

We sat at a cork table in one of the large back rooms. Although there was an intriguing cocktail menu with exotic ingredients like Ceylon cinnamon, we each ordered a glass of wine. My friend ordered a woodsy Flying Vine red and I went with a glass of Gruet.

The menu at the Tasting Room is somewhat misleading; portions are available in both "tastes" and "shares," but a "shared" entree is really only enough for one person. We were quite hungry and knew that we'd each need both an appetizer and a large entree! I chose the creamy, rich Jerusalem artichoke soup with a small floating island of green garlic. In between bites, I poached from my friend's lemony mache salad, which included the fanciful addition of popcorn.

Our entrees were creative and comforting at the same time. My crispy-skinned ivory salmon arrived atop a bed of fluffy barley in an almond sauce. Although I couldn't taste much of the almond and initially thought the sauce was some sort of root vegetable puree, there was definitely butter in there - and I can never have too much butter!

My friend ordered the sturgeon, which was served in a bacon-accented broth of lentils de Puy and green lentil sprouts. The hefty slab of sturgeon was luscious and moist, and the green sprouts added crunch and lightness to the dish.

On the phone, I'd alerted the hostess to the fact that our table was a "birthday table." However, when we arrived at the restaurant, I neglected to tell her which one of us was the birthday girl! So, when the waitress came by with the dessert menus, I mouthed "birthday" as discreetly as I could, hoping she'd realize that the surprise was meant for my friend. Fortunately, everything went perfectly; a festive candle adorned my friend's warm chocolate cake with dulce de leche ice cream. Once again, I poached from her selection; my jar of chocolate-topped butterscotch pot de creme was excellent, but what I was thinking, not ordering the warm chocolate cake?!

The Tasting Room NYC: 264 Elizabeth St., (212) 358-7831. (NOTE: This location is closed as of June 2008. The original wine bar at 72 East 1st St. will stay open.)

Flatbush Farm

Farms are taking over Brooklyn! The Farm On Adderley, and now Flatbush Farm... a friend and I recently enjoyed a hearty meal at the latter. I'd missed St. Mark's Bistro, which formerly occupied the space, so I was happy to see a thriving restaurant once again.

We truly enjoyed our rich, hearty meal, but we felt that the dessert course was the least successful part. (How strange this is!) We began with a kuri (and curried) squash soup and an earthy chestnut soup with celery root and tender soft chestnuts. Then we were presented with a very rich preparation of striped bass, served with a sage cream sauce and buttery parsnips, and a delightful lamb stew with nicely browned potatoes and turnips.

The dessert of apple chestnut crepes seemed too savory and heavy. But this was the only sour note in an enjoyable meal, and the absence of empty tables indicated that Brooklynites are truly enjoying the harvest at Flatbush Farm.

Flatbush Farm: 76 St. Marks Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 622-3276.

Brunch at Goblin Market (CLOSED as of September 2007)

With its strategically exposed brick wall and pounded-copper bar, Goblin Market feels like it's been around for much longer than four months. Today, I was on my way to Grandaisy Bakery to pick up some pizza patate when I decided to stop over at Goblin. I'm so glad I did!

As I sat drinking strong coffee, I watched the plates piling up on neighboring tables: a thick Angus burger, a foot-long rolled tomato, mozzarella basil omelette, lemon buttermilk pancakes. Fortunately, my dish (creme-fraiche-rich eggs scrambled with smoked salmon, topped with a small spray of domestic caviar and served with slightly browned, parsleyed potatoes) was not long in arriving.

The dinner menu looked great too... you can have your steak marinated in miso or Mediterranean-style.

Goblin Market: 199 Prince St., (212) 375-8275.

Restaurant Week at Riingo

My friend, her fiance and I deliberated for quite some time between the regular lunch menu and the Restaurant Week meal at Riingo today. The prospect of dark chocolate mousse and green-tea donuts was the deciding factor, and we all ordered the special $24.07, three-course lunch. "Can I please have some of your green-tea donuts if I order the chocolate mousse?" I pleaded.

"Well, we're not going to have to try each other's entrees," my friend said wryly. She, her fiance and I were all equally interested in the miso-glazed mahi-mahi. At least we'd all ordered different appetizers! Her fiance ordered the bacon-accented potato soup ("Tastes just like a rich, creamy mashed potato," I opined), she went for the salmon avocado roll, and I chose the walnut-sprinkled and caramelized pear frisee salad with Roquefort crumbles. I couldn't resist ordering a few pieces of sushi - salmon roe with a hint of citrus, and a slab of pearly pink yellowtail.

We're so accustomed to the sweet miso black cod served at so many establishments that it took us a minute to get our palates around the soy-flavored mahi-mahi. Once we did, we appreciated the meaty fish with its sides of smoky gingered bulgur and steamed greens.

I groaned. "I wish I hadn't eaten so much of the garlic edamame spread that came with the rolls." (I hope someone decides to mass-produce this spread... it's better than any hummus I've ever eaten.) My groaning was short-lived, as the green-tea-marmalade, sugar-sprinkled donut holes arrived, as well as my star anise ice cream with chocolate mousse: a cylinder of dark chocolate enveloping three layers of ganache, mousse and cake.

As I was taking my last sip of roasted rice green tea, the waitress brought by three gift certificates for $24.07! Try to get into Riingo by Friday (the last day of Restaurant Week) and you'll also be treated to a complimentary future meal.

Riingo: 205 East 45th St., (212) 867-4200. East 45th Street, which also boasts Sakagura and Sushi Yasuda as well as Riingo, is now so tempting that I almost can't handle it anymore.